Sands of Time

Driving Holiday in North West Rajasthan

Focus on the Heritage Hotels

For the benefit of driving enthusiasts looking for a nice holiday to Rajasthan without Jaipur. I am sure that there are many like me who have been to Jaipur so many times that; they are looking to visit Rajasthan without going back to Jaipur again. We did two trips to Rajasthan, literally back to back last winter and want to share it with you all.

Left Delhi on a misty early morning for Mandawa. Now there are two routes which you can take – via Bahadurgarh, Jhajjar, Loharu and Chirawa – which is unconventional but shorter and faster by about 50 kms (takes about 6 hours), then the Jaipur highway till Rewari and branch off to Mohindergarh route which is about 290 kms and takes about 7 hours. However, most people take the Jaipur highway for some reason. The Delhi-Bahadurgarh-Jhajjar road is quite OK and it is only after Jhajjar that the road become narrow but is still very good. It is just that the Haryana State Road transport buses feel that they own the roads and bully all other transport plying on them. After Loharu you start seeing camel carts and you know that you have arrived in Rajasthan.

Mandawa is an important town of the Shekhavati region of Rajasthan and is often known as the open air gallery of the state. The well-to-do Marwari merchants of the region in the early 19^th century who made it big in the metros (Calcutta and Bombay) built these superb havelis. These beautifully painted frescoes are mainly of Hindu mythology. Apart from Mandawa, the small towns of Mukundgarh, Fatehpur, Dundlod, Nawalgarh, Baggar and Alsisar have many such beautiful mansions – unfortunately some in ruins.. Old Havelis and cozy lanes are the focus of a trail that leads visitors through beautiful tales of ancient times. The main havelis are very ornately done and it is a treat to see huge chandeliers, exquisite paintings and carvings, stain glass windows and very elaborate furniture. The best way to visit the bylanes is on camel carts whose owners act as guides. Some of these “Thikanas” have large stables too.

Mandawa Castle, as the name suggests is built in the shape of a castle with high walls but inside has beautiful gardens. What is important to note that as these places (castles, palaces, havelis) were not built as hotels, generally no two rooms are alike. In most such places introduction of modern plumbing has brought about unique problems. However some of the other very nice properties in this area Piramal Haveli and Alsisar Mahal,

After a hearty breakfast we left for Bikaner via Fatehpur and Ratangarh, about 190 kms and 3.5 hours away. The road is very good and at times you can see small dunes on the way. On the way we took a detour to visit the famous Karni Mata “Deshnoke”  Temple. This temple is also known as the Rat Temple as there are thousands of brown rats scurrying around on the floors. Devotees bring milk, grains, sweets and other food for the rats who run around fearlessly.

Bikaner is one of Rajasthan’s prominent cities and is still very traditional. It is known for it’s beautiful and massive Junagarh fort, as well as the camel breeding station. The city also has two very large stately palace hotels, The Lalgarh Palace (red sandstone in Rajputana, Islamic and European architechure) and the Laxmi Niwas Palace (also in red sandstone but in Indo-sarasenic style).  However it is the stately havelis in the old city which are very attractive and a must visit. The best known of the lot is the Rampuria haveli.  Built in red sandstone -  every aspect of the havelis – jharokhas, entrances, lattice work windows, divan khanas - is simply a masterpiece. Leaves and flowers decorate every jharokha, lending it a pleasant touch. These massive havelis are decorated with golden work of the highest quality. The wood carvings at the havelies are of the highest quality. The Ganga museum is the other place which is a must visit for the art enthusiast as statues from the Harappan era are displayed there.

The place we stayed at was a old haveli Bhanwar Niwas  and in the same area is the Rampuria Haveli, where even driving a small car is a problem due to narrow and congested roads. This heritage hotel dates back to 1927 – but it is the artifacts, furniture and the intricate paintings here which are truly priceless.

Just 30 kms outside the city on the main road to Jaisalmer is one of the most beautiful hunting lodges of Rajasthan – Gajner Palace. The palace is built on the banks of a lake and is one of the oldest heritage hotels. Besides its panoramic landscape and architectural beauty, the Palace Complex also has the remnants of a historic railway station, this hunting resort was connected to main Bikaner Palace by rail in 1922.

The road to Jaisalmer (330 kms – 4- 5 hours) is absolutely gorgeous (really good driving conditions,  but more so because of the desert scenery). At some places you can see sand dunes and had been warned that at times you can see sand blowing onto the road – though frankly we did not see anything like that. Phalodi was the first town you will get to after which you come to Pokharan – the town made famous for the atomic test site. Apart from the nuclear test site, the fort here is also well known and apart from Jaisalmer is the largest in the region.

Jaisalmer, very close to the Indo–Pak border is famous for it’s absolutely fantastic setting. The

“Sonar Qila” rises in the distance and can be seen from afar. Being on the path of the ancient trading  routes connecting the far away Arabian Sea, the fort was considered to be impregnable but was ravaged atleast 3 times in its long history.  The city itself looks like a mirage in the mighty Thar desert. The dominating fort in the skyline is not the only attraction in the city, the havelis which dot the old city are the actual stars. The three famous havelis are Patwon Ji Ki Haveli, Salim ji ki haveli and Nathmal ji ki haveli. The architechure of each of these three havelis is totally different, but what is common to them is the latticework found on them. Carvings found on the sandstone havelis are simply marvelous. 

The chattris at the Bada bagh lay testimony to many battles fought here. These cenotaphs are made in stone in Mughal and Rajputana architecture and symbolize Rajput heritage. 

Late in the evening we visited the Gadsisar lake and the first thing which strikes you is the very presence of such a large lake in the middle of the desert. It is an artificial lake but looks quite natural, specially with artistically carved chhatris, temples and ghats making it very pleasing.

One of the integral visits of Jaisalmer has to be the Sam dunes. About 40 kms out of town, the dunes are a popular site for sunsets. Short camel rides on the dunes itself are quite exhilarating. There are quite a few nice camps here where you can stay a night with typical local dances and food. Many people though return to Jaisalmer for the night.

Jaisalmer has hotels in all categories though a few well known ones are the Mandir Palace, Rawalkot, Fort Rajwada and the uber luxurious Suryagarh. 

From Jaisalmer the road for Jodhpur is all eastwards. There are two ways to drive and we chose to go via the Osian Jain temples. At one point in history, this small town had more than a hundred Jain temples. Dating back to the 9^th century you can visit the Sun temple as well as the Kali temple here. The Mahavir temple is a fine example of Jain architechure. The temple carvings are really well preserved and many tourists who visit this marvel at the fine art.

Finally driving into Jodhpur in itself a treat as the massive Mehrangarh fort is visible from afar as a beacon. A beautiful old city is also the second largest city in Rajasthan with a very rich heritage. Jodhpur’s old part is known as the Blue city and with vivid colours against the backdrop of the fort is very photogenic. The massive fort is also one of the tallest and largest forts in India, and frankly would be better as a fort museum. The various galleries here adorn treasures of the Rajputana stronghold. The Sheesh Mahal, amongst the many rooms here is a masterpiece of mirror work. Do not forget to visit the Mehrangarh museum as it houses some extraordinary artifacts. The Mehrangarh trust has started an annual Sufi festival which attracts music lovers from across the world and is fast becoming a great event.

 Another masterpiece, the Jaswant Thada is mostly overlooked by many but the cenotaph is magnificent. This is an example of architectural brilliance in India. It is a white marble memorial, built out of intricately carved sheets of marble. The carving shows the genius of the sculptors. These stones are extremely thin and polished. As a result, the outside surface of the monument emits a warm glow when the sunrays fall on its surface. There is also beautiful marble jali work on the cenotaph. The views of Jodhpur city from the terrace are simple marvelous.

The Umaid Bhawan, most of it is with the hotel, is yet another mind boggling structure and is one of the largest residential palace building in the world. It was built in the early 20^th century to give employment to the people of the city in times of famine and drought. The museum houses many old artifacts belonging to the dynasty of Maharajas of Jodhpur.

 Apart from the incredible Umaid Bhawan Palace Hotel, you have many other old-charm hotels in Jodhpur. The Ajit Bhawan Palace Hotel , Ranbanka and Devi Bhawan are fine examples of palaces converted in hotels. If you have enough time on your hands you should also consider The Balsamand Palace on the lake side and Khimsar Fort which is also a beautiful old palace.

From Jodhpur we travelled North and drive to the medieval town of Nagaur. The ancient fort of Ahichhatragarh Fort is the center of this town which was part of the erstwhile trading route. With many different rulers the fort added portions which had different influences - with the most prominent being the muslim rulers and so you will find many mosques, and tombs. The presence of celebrated Sufi sheikhs made Nagaur also a centre of learning and of pilgrimage. The garden palace has recently been restored and is the venue for the annual sufi festival held along with the one in Jodhpur.

Nagaur is also very famous for the cattle fair where approximately 70,000 bullocks, camels and horses are traded. The animals are lavishly decorated and even their owners dress up wearing colorful turbans and long moustaches in true Rajput traditions. At the Nagaur Fair you can do trades of sheep to Marwari horses to spices. A big attraction is the Mirchi bazaar (largest red-chilly market of India), wooden items, iron-crafts and camel leather accessories. In 2018 the fair will be held between 22–25 Feb – so plan your visit around then.

From Nagaur we drove to Pushkar & Ajmer, another beautiful drive through the arid landscape – barren but very charming. We arrived around mid-afternoon at Pushkar – an important pilgrimage town of Rajasthan. Famous for the lake and the camel & cattle fair which takes place in November every year  (Nov 15 - 23 in 2018). Unfortunately we missed that by about 3 weeks and so went straight to the 14^th century Bhrama temple, which fortunately was not too crowded Located on the banks of the lake, this seems to be the only temple in India dedicated to the Creator.  Pushkar also has a very large Gurdwara and after seeking blessings we went to unwind for the night at the Pushkar palace – and what a sight it was.  Both hotels, The Pushkar Palace & Jagat Palace belong to one owner and are very well-run. From the rooftop restaurant you could see the entire Pushkar town and the lake. A really enjoyable evening, inspite of it being a totally vegetarian and booze-less evening. Yes that is right, being a holy town the town is vegetarian and spiritless.

After an early morning roof top visit for breakfast, we left for Sariska (near Alwar). The Ajmer–Jaipur highway is one of the finest in the country and can be called a super highway. I was dreading the drive through Jaipur (had done it many years ago) but now there is a bye pass and so reached Shapura in no time. The road from this point turns right to go to Sariska and Alwar. The road is not really the best, but thankfully has very limited traffic. Sariska is a beautiful nature park. I really would not call it a Tiger sanctuary as there are just a couple of the big cats left. The place has deer and is full of various species of monkeys. Some say that there are bears and leopards but we did not see any. Entry into the park is restricted to park vehicles (jeeps). The Sariska Palace, originally built as a hunting lodge by the Maharaja is really a elegant building with sprawling lawns and huge rooms. The evening spent here was very enjoyable and peaceful as it was the last night out on the trip.

A local entrepreneur from Alwar town bought a derelict and abandoned old castle, restored it and now runs a very successful heritage hotel at Dadhikar Fort.  It is done up very nicely and caters for all modern amenities in a heritage setting.

After a jeep safari inside the park and to the well-known temple at the far end we left for Delhi but not before going to the famous Neemrana Palace. I am sure people who have been to this fantastic place before are regulars to this relaxing place so close to Delhi. It is highly recommended for people who wish to get out for a relaxing weekend getaway. The original owners have done such a fantastic job of restoration that it started a trend in heritage hotels. These derelict castles, forts and palaces all over have been restored to their original glory and have added a new dimension to Indian tourism. The rustic charm, yet sophistication is a magnet for history buffs and regular travellors who abhor going to standardized hotels across the world. One of the few places in North India to have introduced zip lining to adventure junkies, Neemrana is a by word in heritage hotels. If you are not staying the night at the castle, you have to pre-book your meal. The entry charge to the castle actually covers the lunch. Hitting Gurgaon traffic at the end of the day (due to office hours) was absolutely killing and so please do plan on returning in the mid afternoon time and beat the worst traffic.