The
Dravidian Masterpieces
The majestic Meenakshi Temple @ Madurai |
South
India is easily one of the most under-sold tourism attractions in India. Though
Kerala has marketed itself very well across the world, it is Tamil Nadu and
Karnataka which are relatively understated - but believe me absolutely a marvel
waiting to be discovered. I would not be exaggerating that some of the places
down south equal, if not surpass, the famous South American landmarks such as
Machu Pichu in sheer size, architecture and religious importance.
The temples at Chidambaram, Kancheepuram and Madurai are sheer marvels of
architecture and awe-inspiring in the size of construction. The Vijayanagara
empire ruins at Hampi have been designated a World Heritage Site and are a
delight to visit for its grandeur. It’s a real pity that we have not been able
to market these destinations to the international tourist. Once a person visits
these marvels, he/ she are sure to be awe struck!
KARNATAKA - Our journey started from
Bangalore. Though there are some interesting places to visit, I wanted to get
out of town as quickly as possible and visited the massive Vidhan Sauda
building, the Lalbagh Gardens, and the Nandi Bull Temple - Shiva's mount made
out of one piece black granite.
Vidhan Sauda @ Bangalore
An overnight train journey brought us to Hampi. The main temple
complex Vithala is simply breathtaking. The famous chariot temple is here and
just for that alone one must visit it. Of course the main temple is
outstanding. However, the larger picture here is the expanse of the complex
with the beautiful hills as the backdrop and should ideally be visited at
sunrise or sunset. Some other places as a must-visit here are the Virupaksha
temple, the stepwell and the iconic statue of Narsimha. For the enthusiast the
Hazar Rama Temple’s carvings are worth a look.
Hampi now has some nice places to stay and among them is Evolve back by Orange County group , The Hyatt and the Shivavilas Palace. I
recommend at least a one night/ two day stay here and the best way to travel to
& fro is by the comfortable overnight train.
While in Hampi a short drive away is the magnificent spectacle of
the Tungabhadra Dam and the gardens - definitely a do-not-miss. Your return
train can be boarded from Hospet itself and so the unnecessary drive back to
Hampi is not required.
We boarded the Hampi express (overnight train) back for Mysore
this time and eagerly awaited to visit the famed Mysore Maharaja’s palace, the
Somnath and Sri Chamundeswari temple and new Namdroling monastery. The palace
is absolutely a marvel to behold. The sheer expanse and opulence leaves one
stunned – the paintings, chandeliers, and the furniture makes this palace one
of the best in the country. You can easily spend the better part of the day at
this magnificent building. Next, we visited the monastery – though a new
construction it is interesting how the old Hindu traditions and temples
juxtapose with the growing Tibetan Buddhist influence. However it is the superb
Somnath temple which takes ones breath away. The intricate carvings on the
temple walls are awe inspiring to say the least. This is truly one of the Gems
of India. Naturally the religious fervor of a living temple – Sri Chamundeswari
cannot be compared at all.
We had kept a full day to visit the famous Bellur temples and Hassan.
So we took a car and driver to take us first to Shavanbelagola to visit the
gigantic statue of Bhagwan Bahubali. Warning - the climb up the hill is of
about 650 steps and it certainly tested my physical fitness – but it was definitely
worth it. The positive energy around revitalizes you.
However for me the main place to visit in that tour was the
Kedareswara temple. The absolutely stunning and intricate carvings in this
Shiva temple are unparalleled and absolutely one of the Gems of India. Unfortunately
people do not visit this as much as the other two temples of Cheenakeshava and
the Hoysleswar. Another outstanding temple would be the Lakshmi Narasimha
Temple – for its sheer detail it is a must-see – caution not very many people
know very much about it but a good tourist taxi driver will know. So over all a
very productive visit.
One of the best things to do in Mysore is actually to visit the
many excellent places for Mysore food – the Hotel Mylari – a tiny little place
gives you the best Dosas and Idly – absolutely yummy!
Iconic Lalitha Mahal Palace is still
the most attractive hotel building in Mysore, unfortunately with poor
management it is no longer the most sought-after place as there are many more
great hotels. The Royal Orchid Metropole, The Radisson Blu, The Grand Mercure and the Windflower Spa Resort are some
excellent places to stay.
The above programme in Karnataka which we covered was 6 nights and
7 days (including the 2 overnight train journeys). It gave us enough time to
cover the best of Bangalore, Hampi / Hospet, Mysore.
TAMIL NADU - From Mysore we boarded the
Shatabdi express for Chennai (8.30 hrs). Chennai is a bustling city just like
Bangalore and is fast losing its original character and so frankly if you have
no work there it is best to get out of the town as soon as possible. A half-day
tour covering the St. Thome Church and Kapaleshwar Temple is
enough to give you an idea of the diversity of this old and very historic city.
The National art gallery houses a rich repository of Dravidian art &
culture. The Nataraja statue is absolutely one of the finest you can see in all
of India.
Chennai has many good hotels but the newly built ITC Grand Chola is fast
becoming a landmark with its majestic building. The Taj Coromondal and the Park Hyatt are good
hotels but the Raintree at Annasalai
is a perfect hotel recommended for its location and high quality
of services.
Good morning @ Mahabalipuram |
From Chennai we took a tourist car as that is the best way to tour
Tamil Nadu. The road network is excellent and it gave us an opportunity to see
the countryside. The first place was the holy city of Kancheepuram. This was
the capital city of the Pallava dynasty and Adi Sankara himself was the founder
of the “Peeth”. While everyone knows of this place as of the most important
centers of Hindu religion, this temple
town has 3 outstanding temples (amongst more than 150!) – the
Intricate carving at the Kailashanath Temple, Kancheepuram |
After being suitably stunned and humbled we drove onto
Mahabalipuram – a beautiful sleepy seaside town. Most resorts here have “private”
beaches and so it is just a few steps to the ocean. We were at the stunning Grand Bay Resort . The
sunrise is what I had heard so much about and so headed early morning to the
beach and was certainly not disappointed. It was good to see a few surfing
enthusiasts that rise early up with their surf boards and with the shore temple
in its backdrop it was a stunning picture.
Mahabalipuram |
This fisherman village has history dating back to the 4th.
Century and you have monuments dating back to that time. The famous places to
visit are the Panch Rathas, the Arjunas Penance, and the Butter Ball. However
it is bas relief carving on two monoliths which has the most recognizable
structure of the “Descent of Ganges”. It is pure joy to see the beautiful and
intricate carving in such magnitude.
From Mahabalipuram we left early for a two and a half hour drive for
the temple town of Tiruvannamalai and enroute found a hidden gem – of Gingee
Fort – a 9th Century outpost, very surprising for this part of the
world. Unfortunately by then the sun was beating relentlessly and with the rest
of the day already planned, we skipped walking up the 600 odd steps and
continued onwards. Tiruvannamalai is famous for the Ramanna Ashram and the
mighty Arunachaleshwar Temple. It is said that the devout Shiva devotee who
wishes to go to Sabrimala first has to pay respects at this temple before going
there. Ramanna Ashram is so peaceful and quiet that it invites you to continue
staying there. Although we did not do the 14 kms perimeter walk of the sacred
mountain, there were many people going about it with great devotion. On the outskirts
of the town we stopped for a meal at the only good hotel The Sparsa.
Policeman in " French" Pondicherry |
Finally we drove onto the French Indian township of Pondicherry.
The first thing which struck me was the wide open roads here. After reaching we
visited the famous seaside Promenade. This bustling and happening area has many
nice restaurants, with fresh sea breeze blowing it was very relaxing. We dined
at an authentic French restaurant – Satsanga around here and can recommend it
highly. The next morning we visited Auroville and the peace and calm acts like
a magnet. The breathtaking dome of the Matri Mandir is very unique and the
concept of silence here reminded me of the B’ahai temple in Delhi where one
just sits to contemplate. Be sure to find out the timings and the visiting
requirements before going. Later visited this unique temple of French Dravadian
architecture – The Kanniga Parameswari (Godess Shakti). The painting and motifs
are very different from other South Indian temples with arches inside. Every
afternoon the temple Elephant walks through the temple blessing the devotees
and is quite a sight to see. There are some nice hotels to stay and we opted for
something in the city Le Dupliex but
there are a few others, The Promenade , Windflower Spa and Le
Pondy.
Matri Mandir, Pondicherry |
We had heard so much about Chidambaram’s temples that we were looking
forward to this visit and it is difficult to be disappointed. One of the
largest temple complexes in the South, this complex dates back to the 12th.
Century and over the years the Pallavas and the Cholas have added to it.
Considered to be one of the main 5 Shiva temples it houses the famous bejeweled
Shiva as the Nataraja (an absolute must see). We were very fortunate as the
Dikshidhar here personally took us around and explained the importance, history
and relevance of this fantastic temple. A few months ago someone sent me a
whatsapp showing the longitude on which major Shiva temples across India are
built – Kedarnath, Kaleswaram, Ekambareshwarar, Chidambaram and Rameshwaram are
all in one straight line. Can you imagine how they figured this out hundreds of
years ago without any modern day science? More important is what is the
relevance of this, which no one has been able to give a satisfactory answer!
After the spiritually satisfying visit we reached Tanjore. By this
point we were quite travel fatigued and so the accommodation was most apt for
our state. The Ideal Riverview
Resort is absolutely breathtaking and so calming. Away from the city on
the banks of the river, this resort is quiet and peaceful, yet very
approachable. However it was the Brihideshwara Temple which we were all looking
forward to. Considered to be one of the best temples in South India, it did
live upto the billing. Built in the 11th century this is an absolute
marvel of ancient architecture. The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. The
Nandi in the front courtyard in black granite holds center stage. The capstone
weighs 20 tons and is a mystery as to how it was put there – a 1000 years ago!
Tanjore is famous for its paintings and as it was a dream to
acquire one such piece led us through narrow streets to a small showroom where
the artisan was busy at work making a masterpiece. We found an exquisite
painting of Bal Krishna and immediately set to buy it. Today it adorns our
apartment and everytime I look at it I cannot but thank the Lord.
Our final destination was Madurai where the Meenakshi temple
completed the tour. The biggest temple in South India, the sheer number of
devotees is over whelming to say the least. With four equally beautifully and
ornate gates the temple complex is dedicated to Goddess Meenakshi (a
manifestation of Goddess Partvati). The hall of Thousand Pillars is astounding
as each pillar is beautifully carved and has a beautiful large statue of Natraja
in Bronze. The pillars appear to be in a straight line if viewed from any angle
and each pillar produces a different musical note.
Meenakshi Temple |
Madurai is also home to the beautiful Thirumalai Nayak Palace. One
of the very few places which displays Dravadian, Islam and European
architecture it easily is one of the most beautiful palaces in South India. The
ornate work is mostly lattice and so very unique to that part of the world.
Due to a large influx of tourists, Madurai has hotels to suit all.
The Taj Pasumalai and The Heritage – a
Geoffery Bawa designed hotel are highly recommended. Madurai is very well
connected by air and trains and is the perfect place to end your journey as
multiple transport options are available.
Words of wisdom !!! |
A few important notes travelling to this area and specially
visiting the temples:
·
Find out the temple timings in advance as in most cases these
institutions are open in the morning and then later in the evenings. Most
afternoons are closed.
·
Some of the temples are so crowded that you can spend a fair
amount of time waiting so plan accordingly and start early.
·
It is important to get good guides. Most locals speak limited
English and in order to get a thorough understanding of these architectural
wonders you need a good guide.
·
Dress appropriately – most of these places are places of worship
and the locals can get offended easily. Please find out in advance which
temples restrict entry to non hindus and foreigners.
·
The best time of the year to visit is between mid-November and
end-February. Even during this time it can be hot and the sunshine is strong so
a hat is necessary. Loose cotton clothes are best. At all temples you will be
required to leave footwear outside and can be quite uncomfortable walking on
hot stone paths. It is best to carry thick cotton socks to prevent any awkward
walking.
·
Good reliable transport is the most important part of this journey
as there are long drives. Budget hotels are available and are generally quite
neat and clean but can be basic.
·
South Indian food is yummy and lunch generally is “meals”. This inexpensive
“thali” system is freshly made and wholesome. In the smaller cities North
Indian and international cuisines can be a challenge to find. Larger hotels
ofcourse offer a wide selection of cuisines.
Excellent article! Ready to take a trip down South to explore these places mentioned
ReplyDeleteHi,
DeleteThanks and yes you should take a trip this winters. If you need any further information to plan your trip please do ask.
Thanks & keep travelling
Extremely well written and hugely informative! It stirred some childhood memories of a few places I have seen but would certainly like to visit again.
ReplyDeleteDear Mrs. Sandhu,
DeleteYes I am sure some of these areas are so beautiful that the memories can stay for ever.
Thanks & keep travelling
Great article and lots of useful information! Really inspired to plan a trip down South!
ReplyDeleteHi Jyotin,
DeleteYes some of these places are incredible. One of my subsequent blogs will be about Kerala. It makes for a great combination.
Thanks & keep travelling
Well captured. One needs to visit this circuit again! ~ Cdr Bikram Bakshi
ReplyDeleteAltimate information, pics and place you discovered sir.
ReplyDeleteAltimate information, pics and places you discovered.
ReplyDeleteNice articles...!
ReplyDeleteKeep them coming...!
Cheers...!