Khanabadosh in Italy

ROME - The Coliseum @ Alok Lodha 

The Italian Scramble

Easily one of my favorite countries in Europe, Italy is as diverse as India. It has all types of landscapes - stunning yet secluded beaches, rolling hills, deep azure blue lakes, snow-clad mountains, the canals, the vineyards, craggy islands, ancient ruins, beautiful villages, yet it is the people, the food and the culture which attracts the traveler to this land. Having travelled a few times to this country, I am now looking forward to visiting the attractive island of Sicily which I am told is the heart & soul of Italy. The people are so passionate about their food and culture that I have been looking for an opportunity to go there.

This travelogue is actually about the main land and its many charms. I must admit that I personally have done the journey in two different vacations but am giving it together so that any potential traveler can easily plan their journey by eliminating areas which does not interest them (believe me you don’t want to do that!). Each city and area is different from the other and so frankly if you have the time & inclination visit as many destinations within the country as your time allows. I have never subscribed to the typically Indian travel thought process of packing in as many countries in Europe in a single visit. So to do justice to the country I have divided the journey (and my blog) into two.

The South Seduce

My affair with Italy started right from the ride into Rome from the airport. Gazing from the window we passed the Coliseum – and if I could I would have jumped out right then. We reached the hotel where, after checking in, I did an about-turn for that iconic building. Easily one of the most recognizable buildings in the world, the Coliseum is really massive and one can only grasp the enormity once you go inside.

Rome 

Once you go inside one does get disappointed as there is nothing there. It is the facade which attracts thousands every day. In the twilight, the soft lighting in the alcoves makes it very enchanting.

Trevi Fountain 

Rome is clearly marked into two - the old town and The Vatican.  Both these parts warrant a day at the least. Though Rome is chaotic and disorganized, with a bit of research and planning you can make the most of your trip. Frankly it is best to take a coach tour as most of these places have long queues but have something called “skip the line” tickets. These tour companies have quotas and one gets to sail through. Some of the important places you should do by these tours are the Castel St. Angelo (a beautiful castle on the banks of the Tiber which is actually a part of The Vatican), The Capitoline Museums (home to some of the most beautiful statutes the world has known), and The Galleria Borghese (a must see if you are an art lover). However the best of Rome is outdoors and what Rome is actually famous for the Basilica of San Giovanni, Abbey of the Three Fountains, The Victory monument (Vittoriano monument is the big white monument where you can see the most of Rome and juxtaposes the ancient & new Roman empire), The Pantheon (another well-preserved ancient building), and of course the most romantic part of old city with the Trevi fountain at its heart. It seems like a lot but none of this is something which you can miss.

Though The Vatican is a separate country, it is land-locked and is for all practical purposes part of Rome.

Gateway to the Vatican and the Tiber 

The St. Peter’s Square and Cathedral are the central landmarks which dominate. A secret - though well-known - is that one should try and schedule a visit on a Sunday as the Holiness the Pope gives an audience from his papal apartments at noon. Just by sheer coincidence we went on a Sunday and were surprised to see the St. Peter’s square full of people from all over Europe - some in traditional dresses and babbling away excitedly  in different languages. It was then we learnt that on most Sundays (if His Holiness is in town) he addresses the crowd. There was pin-drop silence in the 400,000 people thronging the square when He emerged from one of the windows and blessed the crowd in several languages. People were so emotional yet it was very orderly and at no stage did we feel insecure in such a large gathering. The Square itself has so many beautiful statutes of the Saints above the colonnades, but it is the Obelisk in the middle which draws attention. The St. Peter’s Basilica is dominating and the largest Church in the world. With great architects like Bernini, Michelangelo, Raphael, Bramante, this houses many treasures and masterpieces. For me the piece-de-resistance was the Pieta!!! I could have spent hours just gazing at the soulful Virgin Mary holding lifeless Jesus in her arms.

Next visit was to the Sistine Chapel which takes your breath away like nowhere else. Part of the Vatican museum, this is famous for the painting on the ceiling by Michelangelo. The various museums within the Vatican display the massive Papal art collection of Renaissance era. Paintings and statues from various master adorns these museums and is a must visit. A word of caution – during season time ticket purchase lines can be very long  and here it is highly recommended that one buys the tickets in advance with several options with  “skip the line”, guided tours as well as audio guides being the most popular.

I am sure everyone is fond of Italian food. Trasvestre is great area for an evening walk and has excellent restaurants and cafes. Another great area to meet up locals is the Campo Di Fiori and so make the best of your evenings in Rome.

As in most parts of Europe, travel by train is very fast, efficient, very comfortable and comparatively economical. Italy is no exception and I highly recommend TrenItalia which has three types of trains – The Frecciarossa is the super fast one with speeds of over 300 – 400 kms/hour and mainly connecting the larger towns. Then you have Frecciargento which run to smaller towns but are also very fast and finally the Frecciabianca which connect to villages and are mostly day trains. What is common is that they are all extremely comfortable, fares are lower and also offer very economical rail passes. Now with these available over the internet and through a bevy of agents you can plan each day well in advance.

Florence - Ponte Vecchio 

We could not wait to get to Florence the next day as the famous town is on everyone’s wish list. A short train ride away and on checking into a hotel, went for our slotted time to visit the Uffizi gallery. This is the mecca of art lovers to see high quality art from the great masters since 1581. Birth of Venus by Botticelli, breathtaking sculptures of Bandinelli, works from Raphael, Leonardo Di Vinci, Titan, and Caravaggio adorn the magnificent halls. However, the greatest draw seems to Michelangelo’s David at the Academia. Scores of giggling women, budding sculptors and awestruck tourists just cannot get enough of this masterpiece.

There is an overload of art here as the Duomo and many other places here are simply out of the world and frankly no less than the Duomo at Milan. Named after the Santa Maria Del Fiore, this huge gothic style structure is magnificent. The painting inside of the dome is one of its kind and reminds one of the Sistine Chapel. The Church of Santa Maria Novella and Basilica of Santa Croce are also must see and one should plan to spend at least 3 days in this city. Out of this time a half-day tour to Pisa is one of the top must-dos also. It is the romantic area of Tuscany which symbolizes Italy and attracts huge numbers of people to the many wine yards.

Our next stop is the famous city of Naples on the coast, a beautiful and historic city

Naples 

and frankly the gateway to the famed Amalfi coast. If Rome was mostly monument sightseeing and serious, Naples is all about fun and good food. Often chaotic, exuberant and colourful, the views from the hill overlooking the city, the Mt Vesuvious and the Bay of Naples are breathtaking. Home to the Pizza our first stop was to a nice pizzeria in the heart of town. The who’s who of the world leaders have visited this simple pizzeria which offers a very limited variety but often has long queues outside. We visited the famous catacombs of San Gerraro and regretted that as I am claustrophobic. However, it is absolutely fantastic how people had to live underground permanently to avoid persecution. Walk along the harbor and the lively neighborhood of Santa Lucia to get the feel of this vibrant city. The Capodimonte palace & museum has some fantastic art treasures and definitely a visit. The cathedral is one of the finest and again a must visit. The Castel Nuovo with the backdrop of the harbor and massive cruise ships docked symbolizes Naples.

I highly recommend staying in the center of town at Plaza Garibaldi as then you have easy access to public transport to all parts of Naples – all sightseeing coaches leave from this square.  There are some excellent hotels around the area to choose from.

Our visit to Capri was a day visit simply because the hotels at this jet set and really stylish island are very expensive. The jetfoils and ferries from the harbor to and fro are very frequent which is very ideal. A must do at Capri – enjoy a Limon cello aperitif at one of several cafes and blend in with the swish crowd.

From Naples we took a coach to Sorrento, stopping enroute at the famous ruins at Pompeii. The ruins are remnant of its history and the tragedy which took place. To think that it is in the shadow of an active volcano adds to the excitement.

Driving onwards we came across one of the most beautiful areas in the world –

the Amalfi coast and the small town of Sorrento is the gem. The sheer cliffs with picturesque small villages perched are awesome. The cafes and bars which abound the narrow alleys and the main town square are really fun. If you missed visiting Capri earlier, one can take a ferry from here also. Take a boat tour along the coast to see one of the most beautiful destinations of the world.  The panoramic coastal views of seaside towns such as Arienzo, Recommone, Crapolla, Fornillo and Laurito are absolutely incredible.  I recommend this area and rate it as the highlight of my many trips in Europe. Keep aside atleast 3 nights at Sorrento, Positano or Salerno.

The Amlfi Coast 

From Salerno I boarded a train for the southern city of Matera. This incredible town is made up of caves and cave dwellings. This medieval town reminded me of Cappadocia in Italy. Though the similarity ends with caves, Matera is very crowded and leads to many alley ways, some of which turn out to be dead-ends. The cathedral and the town square Plaza Vittorio Venitois are typical of Italy and the main attraction is the unique style of living. It is recommended that you stay in one of the several cave style hotels and B&Bs to get a feel of the local style of living.

Our next stop Bari is a port town on its Adriatic coast. It is famous for its port as well as its university. Be ready for a lively night out as the young population gives the city its swinging nightlife. The opera house and the Basilica of St Nicola are as attractive as its numerous boulevards lined with “trattorias”. With its Mediterranean weather and happy go lucky lifestyle, Bari is fun and a great hit with the younger generation. Bari has a range of hotels to suit budget though I recommend the Palace hotel in the historic city center.    If you are not too pressed for time, a half-day visit to a very unique town of Alberobello – a UNESCO heritage tagged place with very unusual cone-shaped limestone roofs. Just an hour away from Bari, take a day tour which I am sure you will not regret at all.

From Bari, we took one of the super fast trains back to Rome to return home. Leaving Italy is never easy as it gets into your blood and the urge to return again and again is very strong.