Khaanabdosh in Uttranchal

Alluring Uttaranchal

 

Early morning view of  Nanda Devi at Ramgarh

The incredible views one is rewarded within our very own lake district of Uttaranchal are a sight to behold. Of course the best way is to take a driving holiday – the roads are good and with not too much traffic. The best time to travel is from March till mid-April as well as from October till November as the skies are clear and perfect for photography. It’s an added bonus that the hordes of tourists are not travelling at this time so you can make the most of the sights and the sounds of nature. You can hear the birds chirping, see the flowers blooming and feel the gentle rustling of the pines. The bracing cold air is very refreshing and clears the lungs of the putrid air we inhale in the cities.

Our journey takes us through Corbett National Park, Bhimtal, Ramgarh, Mukhteswar, Ranikhet, Binsar and Nighlat near Nainital. We had quite a number of days at our disposal and took the journey at leisure. As they say a picture is worth a million words, thus this blog has a few words and many pictures.

A glorious sunrise

The drive out of Delhi on the Moradabad byepass highway is very nice and after a midway pit stop (there are many nice places enroute) we reached Ramnagar. The Corbett Park area is quite spread out in the foot hills and we chose to stay at a quieter part of the park, Marchula. The drive from  Ramnagar to the small village in the northern part of the park goes through the park and the abundant greenery refreshed the eyes. With limited traffic and thick forests you really do get the feeling that you are being watched by menacing eyes or ready to be charged by a parade of Elephants. In fact we were told not to stop anywhere en route the hour’s journey. We made it without any incident to our resort by the Ramganga river. We skipped the mandatory “jeep safari” into the park (we went last October) as the tall grass pretty much made sure that chances of our seeing the elusive big cat were next to nil.

The thick forests at Corbett National Park 

However we were rewarded by sightings of a crocodile, a family of wild boars and two different species of deer – all within 50 meters of our lodgings. I strongly recommend staying outside of the “ Ramnagar strip” of hotels if you really want to be out in nature.

Bhimtal on a cloudy day !! 

After spending two nights there we drove via Ramnagar, Kaladungi and Haldwani to Bhimtal. Just outside Kathgodam before you turn off to Bhimtal, you come to a delightful small south Indian restaurant. Followed by a fill of idlis and a dosa, we arrived at Bhimtal. A smaller version of the Naini lake, Bhimtal is much more laid back, quieter and sleepy. Absolutely loved our two night stay at a nice inn on the right side bank of the lake. 

Our next stop was Ramgarh – just an hours’ drive away. The drive was absolutely delightful and scenic. I highly recommend that one stops at vantage points to overlook the valley and the mesmerizing ranges with snow-clad peaks.  Also known as the fruit bowl of Uttrakhand, Ramgarh has several orchards and the fruit

laden trees are a common sight. Although it was already autumn, yet you can drive past trees still weighed down with apples. There are several delightful places to stay here with million $$$ views!

Ramgarh View 

From Ramgarh we took the road for a yet shorter journey to Mukhteswar. Perched on a hilltop this is a very well-known tourist place known for its awesome mountain views and Indian Veterinary Research Institute. A hidden gem is a small orchard of a Mr. Bisht where you can get organic herbs and over the years we have been buying dried Oregano, Rosemary, Thyme, Peppermint, Lemon grass, Chives, and local red chilies from him. Because of its hilltop location, the views of the two sides of the valleys during sunrise & sunset are great. There can hardly be a better place anywhere else to view the mighty peaks than the gardens of the old inspection bungalow with a 360 degree view. 

Homestay at Mukhteswar 

Traversing across the panorama we went from Mukhteswar to Ranikhet through  narrow roads passing through orchards and small villages via Almora. This drive is one of the most beautiful drives in all of Uttaranchal with hardly any traffic and any major construction sites. Just relax and enjoy the drive with periodic stops on the way to admire nature at its best. Almora, unfortunately is becoming a concrete jungle, as is the city of Ranikhet. The ideal place to stay is outside the bazaar area overlooking the valley. As is the case in nearly all of Uttaranchal “hill stations”  this place too is overrun by monkeys – so be careful.

From Ranikhet one has to do a day trip to Binsar National Park – back tracking on the Almora / Ranikhet road you take a left at Majkhali through delightful villages to Binsar. Kindly check on the timing and restrictions to go the very end where the Kumaon Mandal  has an old bungalow. Take a short trek to hunting rock for magnificient views of the Trishul, Nanda Devi and the Panchachuli peaks. Visitors in March / April are rewarded with blooming rhododendron trees (locally called Buransh).  Ranikhet is an ideal 3-night destination.

Garden Valley Nighlat

From Ranikhet  we drove on the main highway towards Bhowali and stopped for a couple of nights at one of the best homestay places in all of Uttaranchal – The Garden Valley at Nighlat. Near the Kainchi dham, this homestay is run by a delightful couple. They live there themselves and have made the place a heaven with beautiful gardens filled with fruits, vegetables and flowers. I am told that it is not uncommon to hear a Leopard prow;ing around in the night. However this place is most sought after for the lip-smacking food and believe me – a must-visit place. Being so close to Nainital and just 45 minutes from Kathgodam, it is no wonder this place is so well sought after – so make sure you call in advance for a reservation.

View of Nainital from China Peak 

 From the Garden Valley you can take a day tour to the crowded  Nainital city. The lake itself is very picturesque as is the Governor’s mansion. The Scottish castle with its beautiful grounds is open to the public at times. 

Raj Bhawan @ Nainital 

The Natraj statute in the main foyer is worth a look.  The adjoining golf course is one of its kind and one can often see enthusiasts catching a leisurely game.  A drive upto the peak behind Nainital- called China peak offers beautiful views of the mountains.

Finally the day which we did not want to come dawned upon us that our journey was coming to an end.  However to console oneself some words of wisdom from Pat Conroy –“Once you have travelled, the voyage never ends. The mind can never break off from the journey.”  So we can chose to relive our journeys at any point to get our highs!

The drive back to Delhi was uneventful but monotonous. I would not recommend anyone taking the Haldwani – Rudrapur – Rampur road as its maintenance is snot regular and has huge potholes. Instead take the Nainital – Kaladhungi – Moradabad byepass road for Delhi. A final tip – the road from Dasna to Nizamuddin is very crowded and should be avoided after 5 pm onwards.