Winter is Coming

WINTER IS COMING !

Now that winter is coming, the Games of Thrones followers and travel enthusiasts are looking to travel to some of the most exotic destinations. What can be more alluring to the GOT followers than Iceland where a lot of the now iconic drama series was shot.

Aurora @ Iceland 

A relatively new destination and experience to travelers who live in the tropics, is winter travel. I can vouch for this absolutely incredible experience of snow-bound areas. One just needs to be well-clad to experience the extreme cold but all this is negated by the first sight of the Aurora Borealis – also known as the dancing lights / winter lights or Northern lights This phenomena can be sighted in the Arctic circle mostly from October till April – and what a spectacle it is. Armed with multiple layers of warm clothes and a thick parka, we started our journey into the fantastic land of Iceland.

Borgarfjorour West Iceland 

 This is really a once in a lifetime experience which is best done by visiting Iceland and Lapland (Northern Finland). The sheer variety of sights you can get on this 10–12 day tour is unparalleled -  ranging from volcanoes, glacier parks, cascading and yet frozen water falls, smoking geysers, spectacular ice lagoons with floating glaciers, hot springs and lava fields. The icing on the cake is to see the dancing lights.

The capital city of Iceland, Reykjavik is on the southern coast of Iceland and the largest city. This modern and beautiful city is the perfect place for you to start your journey across this island. A rocking nightlife, quirky buildings, and beautiful people symbolize the essence of this city. Hallgrímskirkja church building is Reykjavík's main landmark and its tower can be seen from almost everywhere in the city. Must visits are the art museum, National museum with its Vikings wing, the Old Harbour area which is rocking at night, and a walking visit through the Old town. However, the Harpa is the heart & soul of the city. This cultural center and concert hall is iconic.

Winter Wonderland 

Leaving the city one heads west to the Saga valley and to the famous Grabok volcano crater. Of course it is no longer bubbling but the walk along the crater is very invigorating. Watch out for the wind as that can be very strong. Next you visit the impressive Deildartunguhver hot water springs, which are the largest in Europe producing 180 liters of water at a 100 C Degrees. Being in the wilderness it is the perfect place to look out for the dancing lights. It is ideal for a two night stop and don’t miss out on the languid joy of submerging in the outdoor hot tubs at your hotel. From the small town of Borgarnes a visit to the The Snæfellsnes Peninsula “the peninsula of the snowy mountain” is a must. It  juts out from Iceland’s west coast, like a long arm with a clenched fist at its tip, and is in many ways a microcosm of the whole island. A rugged mountain chain runs its length. A visit to the charming fishing town of Stykkishólmur for a cruise in the Breiðafjörður fjord should also be on the to do list. The fishing village of Grundarfjörður and its backdrop is a place with an impressive coastline and mountains. Jutting out into the bay rises one of the most photographed mountain in Iceland, the Mt. Kirkjufell.  In the evening you step out into the open to chase the lights from the comfort of your hot tubs.

Next we traveled along the Hvalfjörður fjord when we first stopped at an Icelandic wool outlet store. The local designs on sweaters are very traditional and a fashion symbol now. Further inland is the famous Þingvellir National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site. We traveled the Golden Circle route and could see steam rising from the Geysir geothermal fields as we arrived. There is a variety of hot springs and bubbling pools. The original geyser is now dormant but has been replaced by Strokkur "the Churn" which erupts at 5-10 minute intervals. There is a well-known restaurant “Restaurant Geysir”  where the chef invites you to taste freshly baked hot spring bread served with Icelandic butter, geothermally boiled eggs and herring. It is best served with a small glass of Geysir Schnapps, very cold – nearly freezing – highly recommended for this unique experience. Continuing onwards you arrive at Gullfoss, a double waterfall that tumbles 34 meters into the Hvítá river and attracts tourists and travellers in both summer and winter alike. The night stay in the countryside affords the best views of the winter lights – all this while you are cocooned in outdoor hot water tubs – a thrilling experience in itself. Freezing temperatures outside yet you are in warm water.

 The next day we left for a visit to the Eyjafjallajökull Information Center where you learn about living next to a glacier and an active volcano. Nearby is Skógafoss waterfall which is 60 meters high and one of the most impressive waterfalls in the country. In the afternoon we take a stroll on the black lava beach and along bird cliffs at Reynisfjara in South Iceland. We spent 2 nights near Kirkjubæjarklaustur in the Vatnajökull National Park region, located in darkness, and ideal for looking for the Northern Lights.

Eyjafjallajökull

The highlight of our tour was the visit to the Skaftafell National park and the Vatnajokull Glacier.   We traveled to Jökulsárlón, to explore this extra ordinary site of a glacial lagoon filled with floating icebergs. The walk on the black sandy beach was very different from our own Goan beaches. In the afternoon we visited the tiny turf church at Hof and spend time at Europe’s largest national park, which has Iceland’s highest mountains, an alpine environment, and Europe's largest glacier. Remember enjoy a film presentation at Northern Lights Academy in the evening and learn more about this unique but mesmerizing phenomena. It is highly recommended not to go to bed too early in this remote and quiet location or you may just miss out one more chance of seeing the Northern Lights shimmering and dancing across the night sky. The next day we had the unique experience of visiting a spectacular crystal ice cave in Europe‘s largest glacier, Vatnajökull. It is like standing under a frozen blue ocean or in a frozen cathedral surrounded by millions of shades of blue. Deep under Iceland’s massive Vatnajökull glacier, beautiful caves of ice are formed by rivers of melted water during the summer time. Too dangerous to visit in the spring and summer due to a threat of collapse, cold winter temperatures strengthen the ice and make exploration possible and safe to visit from December to February. The total tour takes about 2,5 hours with an hour inside the cave. For this extraordinary experience one needs good hiking water proof boots, warm clothing that keeps you dry from the dripping water in the ice cave. This was an optional tour and not part of the main tour to be paid for separately – but totally worth it.

Gullfoss Waterfall 

 On the last day we headed back to the Eldhraun lava field to the village of Vík for a photo stop.  The black lava beach with high bird cliffs and pounding waves was very impressive. Before arriving into the capital city visited the high but narrow Seljalandsfoss waterfall which plunges from the mountain.

Countryside Church

Iceland was actually a revelation and is very highly recommended to those who seek adventure, an extra ordinary trip of the outdoor yet with all material comforts. The romance of being in a hot water tub with freezing temperatures outside, gazing at the natural Northern lights phenomena is surely a thrill of lifetime. A visit to Iceland with a pre-booked tour is highly recommended as on your own it is not easy – especially in winter months. With tours starting from about Euro 1100 per person it is value for money. If you are not looking to take the longer tour a 4-nights economical tour of Euro 555 per person is also highly recommended. 

Visit www.amazingjourneys.co.in for some tour options.

Lapland, the second part of the journey though is also in the arctic circle, it is quite different as the experience and landscapes was very different. While Iceland was quite stark and barren, Lapland is very “ green”  with thick conifer forests. Flying into Helsinki from Reykjavik, we connected onwards to the capital of Lapland – Rovaniemi. The official hometown of Santa Claus. Famous for the Christmas experience in the home of Santa Claus we visited the Christmas house Santa. Another must do was a   Husky safari. These very ferocious looking dogs are very gentle and the sledging experience they give is really nice – though I must not very easy. Balancing is an art which has to be mastered or else having snow in your face often is no really a nice experience. 

Glass Igloos @ Kakslauttanen

However the real experience for which I had made this trip was to stay at an glass domed igloo at a very nice artctic resort about 3 hours from Rovaniemi – Kakslauttanen. The experience of sleeping in a glass igloo can only be matched by the views you get of the sky ( if it is clear). The Northern lights dancing away made sure that any chance of sleep coming through that night would evaporate. The spectacle is so incredible that no words can describe it. This is something which you have see and experience. I am sure that this will remain etched in our mind for the rest of my life. So people out there you have to go for this once in a lifetime experience!!!! 

The Northern lights @ Kakslauttanen

Inside your warm bed in the Igloo @ Kakslauttanen

Khaanabdosh in Uttranchal

Alluring Uttaranchal

 

Early morning view of  Nanda Devi at Ramgarh

The incredible views one is rewarded within our very own lake district of Uttaranchal are a sight to behold. Of course the best way is to take a driving holiday – the roads are good and with not too much traffic. The best time to travel is from March till mid-April as well as from October till November as the skies are clear and perfect for photography. It’s an added bonus that the hordes of tourists are not travelling at this time so you can make the most of the sights and the sounds of nature. You can hear the birds chirping, see the flowers blooming and feel the gentle rustling of the pines. The bracing cold air is very refreshing and clears the lungs of the putrid air we inhale in the cities.

Our journey takes us through Corbett National Park, Bhimtal, Ramgarh, Mukhteswar, Ranikhet, Binsar and Nighlat near Nainital. We had quite a number of days at our disposal and took the journey at leisure. As they say a picture is worth a million words, thus this blog has a few words and many pictures.

A glorious sunrise

The drive out of Delhi on the Moradabad byepass highway is very nice and after a midway pit stop (there are many nice places enroute) we reached Ramnagar. The Corbett Park area is quite spread out in the foot hills and we chose to stay at a quieter part of the park, Marchula. The drive from  Ramnagar to the small village in the northern part of the park goes through the park and the abundant greenery refreshed the eyes. With limited traffic and thick forests you really do get the feeling that you are being watched by menacing eyes or ready to be charged by a parade of Elephants. In fact we were told not to stop anywhere en route the hour’s journey. We made it without any incident to our resort by the Ramganga river. We skipped the mandatory “jeep safari” into the park (we went last October) as the tall grass pretty much made sure that chances of our seeing the elusive big cat were next to nil.

The thick forests at Corbett National Park 

However we were rewarded by sightings of a crocodile, a family of wild boars and two different species of deer – all within 50 meters of our lodgings. I strongly recommend staying outside of the “ Ramnagar strip” of hotels if you really want to be out in nature.

Bhimtal on a cloudy day !! 

After spending two nights there we drove via Ramnagar, Kaladungi and Haldwani to Bhimtal. Just outside Kathgodam before you turn off to Bhimtal, you come to a delightful small south Indian restaurant. Followed by a fill of idlis and a dosa, we arrived at Bhimtal. A smaller version of the Naini lake, Bhimtal is much more laid back, quieter and sleepy. Absolutely loved our two night stay at a nice inn on the right side bank of the lake. 

Our next stop was Ramgarh – just an hours’ drive away. The drive was absolutely delightful and scenic. I highly recommend that one stops at vantage points to overlook the valley and the mesmerizing ranges with snow-clad peaks.  Also known as the fruit bowl of Uttrakhand, Ramgarh has several orchards and the fruit

laden trees are a common sight. Although it was already autumn, yet you can drive past trees still weighed down with apples. There are several delightful places to stay here with million $$$ views!

Ramgarh View 

From Ramgarh we took the road for a yet shorter journey to Mukhteswar. Perched on a hilltop this is a very well-known tourist place known for its awesome mountain views and Indian Veterinary Research Institute. A hidden gem is a small orchard of a Mr. Bisht where you can get organic herbs and over the years we have been buying dried Oregano, Rosemary, Thyme, Peppermint, Lemon grass, Chives, and local red chilies from him. Because of its hilltop location, the views of the two sides of the valleys during sunrise & sunset are great. There can hardly be a better place anywhere else to view the mighty peaks than the gardens of the old inspection bungalow with a 360 degree view. 

Homestay at Mukhteswar 

Traversing across the panorama we went from Mukhteswar to Ranikhet through  narrow roads passing through orchards and small villages via Almora. This drive is one of the most beautiful drives in all of Uttaranchal with hardly any traffic and any major construction sites. Just relax and enjoy the drive with periodic stops on the way to admire nature at its best. Almora, unfortunately is becoming a concrete jungle, as is the city of Ranikhet. The ideal place to stay is outside the bazaar area overlooking the valley. As is the case in nearly all of Uttaranchal “hill stations”  this place too is overrun by monkeys – so be careful.

From Ranikhet one has to do a day trip to Binsar National Park – back tracking on the Almora / Ranikhet road you take a left at Majkhali through delightful villages to Binsar. Kindly check on the timing and restrictions to go the very end where the Kumaon Mandal  has an old bungalow. Take a short trek to hunting rock for magnificient views of the Trishul, Nanda Devi and the Panchachuli peaks. Visitors in March / April are rewarded with blooming rhododendron trees (locally called Buransh).  Ranikhet is an ideal 3-night destination.

Garden Valley Nighlat

From Ranikhet  we drove on the main highway towards Bhowali and stopped for a couple of nights at one of the best homestay places in all of Uttaranchal – The Garden Valley at Nighlat. Near the Kainchi dham, this homestay is run by a delightful couple. They live there themselves and have made the place a heaven with beautiful gardens filled with fruits, vegetables and flowers. I am told that it is not uncommon to hear a Leopard prow;ing around in the night. However this place is most sought after for the lip-smacking food and believe me – a must-visit place. Being so close to Nainital and just 45 minutes from Kathgodam, it is no wonder this place is so well sought after – so make sure you call in advance for a reservation.

View of Nainital from China Peak 

 From the Garden Valley you can take a day tour to the crowded  Nainital city. The lake itself is very picturesque as is the Governor’s mansion. The Scottish castle with its beautiful grounds is open to the public at times. 

Raj Bhawan @ Nainital 

The Natraj statute in the main foyer is worth a look.  The adjoining golf course is one of its kind and one can often see enthusiasts catching a leisurely game.  A drive upto the peak behind Nainital- called China peak offers beautiful views of the mountains.

Finally the day which we did not want to come dawned upon us that our journey was coming to an end.  However to console oneself some words of wisdom from Pat Conroy –“Once you have travelled, the voyage never ends. The mind can never break off from the journey.”  So we can chose to relive our journeys at any point to get our highs!

The drive back to Delhi was uneventful but monotonous. I would not recommend anyone taking the Haldwani – Rudrapur – Rampur road as its maintenance is snot regular and has huge potholes. Instead take the Nainital – Kaladhungi – Moradabad byepass road for Delhi. A final tip – the road from Dasna to Nizamuddin is very crowded and should be avoided after 5 pm onwards. 

 

Khanabadosh in Italy

ROME - The Coliseum @ Alok Lodha 

The Italian Scramble

Easily one of my favorite countries in Europe, Italy is as diverse as India. It has all types of landscapes - stunning yet secluded beaches, rolling hills, deep azure blue lakes, snow-clad mountains, the canals, the vineyards, craggy islands, ancient ruins, beautiful villages, yet it is the people, the food and the culture which attracts the traveler to this land. Having travelled a few times to this country, I am now looking forward to visiting the attractive island of Sicily which I am told is the heart & soul of Italy. The people are so passionate about their food and culture that I have been looking for an opportunity to go there.

This travelogue is actually about the main land and its many charms. I must admit that I personally have done the journey in two different vacations but am giving it together so that any potential traveler can easily plan their journey by eliminating areas which does not interest them (believe me you don’t want to do that!). Each city and area is different from the other and so frankly if you have the time & inclination visit as many destinations within the country as your time allows. I have never subscribed to the typically Indian travel thought process of packing in as many countries in Europe in a single visit. So to do justice to the country I have divided the journey (and my blog) into two.

The South Seduce

My affair with Italy started right from the ride into Rome from the airport. Gazing from the window we passed the Coliseum – and if I could I would have jumped out right then. We reached the hotel where, after checking in, I did an about-turn for that iconic building. Easily one of the most recognizable buildings in the world, the Coliseum is really massive and one can only grasp the enormity once you go inside.

Rome 

Once you go inside one does get disappointed as there is nothing there. It is the facade which attracts thousands every day. In the twilight, the soft lighting in the alcoves makes it very enchanting.

Trevi Fountain 

Rome is clearly marked into two - the old town and The Vatican.  Both these parts warrant a day at the least. Though Rome is chaotic and disorganized, with a bit of research and planning you can make the most of your trip. Frankly it is best to take a coach tour as most of these places have long queues but have something called “skip the line” tickets. These tour companies have quotas and one gets to sail through. Some of the important places you should do by these tours are the Castel St. Angelo (a beautiful castle on the banks of the Tiber which is actually a part of The Vatican), The Capitoline Museums (home to some of the most beautiful statutes the world has known), and The Galleria Borghese (a must see if you are an art lover). However the best of Rome is outdoors and what Rome is actually famous for the Basilica of San Giovanni, Abbey of the Three Fountains, The Victory monument (Vittoriano monument is the big white monument where you can see the most of Rome and juxtaposes the ancient & new Roman empire), The Pantheon (another well-preserved ancient building), and of course the most romantic part of old city with the Trevi fountain at its heart. It seems like a lot but none of this is something which you can miss.

Though The Vatican is a separate country, it is land-locked and is for all practical purposes part of Rome.

Gateway to the Vatican and the Tiber 

The St. Peter’s Square and Cathedral are the central landmarks which dominate. A secret - though well-known - is that one should try and schedule a visit on a Sunday as the Holiness the Pope gives an audience from his papal apartments at noon. Just by sheer coincidence we went on a Sunday and were surprised to see the St. Peter’s square full of people from all over Europe - some in traditional dresses and babbling away excitedly  in different languages. It was then we learnt that on most Sundays (if His Holiness is in town) he addresses the crowd. There was pin-drop silence in the 400,000 people thronging the square when He emerged from one of the windows and blessed the crowd in several languages. People were so emotional yet it was very orderly and at no stage did we feel insecure in such a large gathering. The Square itself has so many beautiful statutes of the Saints above the colonnades, but it is the Obelisk in the middle which draws attention. The St. Peter’s Basilica is dominating and the largest Church in the world. With great architects like Bernini, Michelangelo, Raphael, Bramante, this houses many treasures and masterpieces. For me the piece-de-resistance was the Pieta!!! I could have spent hours just gazing at the soulful Virgin Mary holding lifeless Jesus in her arms.

Next visit was to the Sistine Chapel which takes your breath away like nowhere else. Part of the Vatican museum, this is famous for the painting on the ceiling by Michelangelo. The various museums within the Vatican display the massive Papal art collection of Renaissance era. Paintings and statues from various master adorns these museums and is a must visit. A word of caution – during season time ticket purchase lines can be very long  and here it is highly recommended that one buys the tickets in advance with several options with  “skip the line”, guided tours as well as audio guides being the most popular.

I am sure everyone is fond of Italian food. Trasvestre is great area for an evening walk and has excellent restaurants and cafes. Another great area to meet up locals is the Campo Di Fiori and so make the best of your evenings in Rome.

As in most parts of Europe, travel by train is very fast, efficient, very comfortable and comparatively economical. Italy is no exception and I highly recommend TrenItalia which has three types of trains – The Frecciarossa is the super fast one with speeds of over 300 – 400 kms/hour and mainly connecting the larger towns. Then you have Frecciargento which run to smaller towns but are also very fast and finally the Frecciabianca which connect to villages and are mostly day trains. What is common is that they are all extremely comfortable, fares are lower and also offer very economical rail passes. Now with these available over the internet and through a bevy of agents you can plan each day well in advance.

Florence - Ponte Vecchio 

We could not wait to get to Florence the next day as the famous town is on everyone’s wish list. A short train ride away and on checking into a hotel, went for our slotted time to visit the Uffizi gallery. This is the mecca of art lovers to see high quality art from the great masters since 1581. Birth of Venus by Botticelli, breathtaking sculptures of Bandinelli, works from Raphael, Leonardo Di Vinci, Titan, and Caravaggio adorn the magnificent halls. However, the greatest draw seems to Michelangelo’s David at the Academia. Scores of giggling women, budding sculptors and awestruck tourists just cannot get enough of this masterpiece.

There is an overload of art here as the Duomo and many other places here are simply out of the world and frankly no less than the Duomo at Milan. Named after the Santa Maria Del Fiore, this huge gothic style structure is magnificent. The painting inside of the dome is one of its kind and reminds one of the Sistine Chapel. The Church of Santa Maria Novella and Basilica of Santa Croce are also must see and one should plan to spend at least 3 days in this city. Out of this time a half-day tour to Pisa is one of the top must-dos also. It is the romantic area of Tuscany which symbolizes Italy and attracts huge numbers of people to the many wine yards.

Our next stop is the famous city of Naples on the coast, a beautiful and historic city

Naples 

and frankly the gateway to the famed Amalfi coast. If Rome was mostly monument sightseeing and serious, Naples is all about fun and good food. Often chaotic, exuberant and colourful, the views from the hill overlooking the city, the Mt Vesuvious and the Bay of Naples are breathtaking. Home to the Pizza our first stop was to a nice pizzeria in the heart of town. The who’s who of the world leaders have visited this simple pizzeria which offers a very limited variety but often has long queues outside. We visited the famous catacombs of San Gerraro and regretted that as I am claustrophobic. However, it is absolutely fantastic how people had to live underground permanently to avoid persecution. Walk along the harbor and the lively neighborhood of Santa Lucia to get the feel of this vibrant city. The Capodimonte palace & museum has some fantastic art treasures and definitely a visit. The cathedral is one of the finest and again a must visit. The Castel Nuovo with the backdrop of the harbor and massive cruise ships docked symbolizes Naples.

I highly recommend staying in the center of town at Plaza Garibaldi as then you have easy access to public transport to all parts of Naples – all sightseeing coaches leave from this square.  There are some excellent hotels around the area to choose from.

Our visit to Capri was a day visit simply because the hotels at this jet set and really stylish island are very expensive. The jetfoils and ferries from the harbor to and fro are very frequent which is very ideal. A must do at Capri – enjoy a Limon cello aperitif at one of several cafes and blend in with the swish crowd.

From Naples we took a coach to Sorrento, stopping enroute at the famous ruins at Pompeii. The ruins are remnant of its history and the tragedy which took place. To think that it is in the shadow of an active volcano adds to the excitement.

Driving onwards we came across one of the most beautiful areas in the world –

the Amalfi coast and the small town of Sorrento is the gem. The sheer cliffs with picturesque small villages perched are awesome. The cafes and bars which abound the narrow alleys and the main town square are really fun. If you missed visiting Capri earlier, one can take a ferry from here also. Take a boat tour along the coast to see one of the most beautiful destinations of the world.  The panoramic coastal views of seaside towns such as Arienzo, Recommone, Crapolla, Fornillo and Laurito are absolutely incredible.  I recommend this area and rate it as the highlight of my many trips in Europe. Keep aside atleast 3 nights at Sorrento, Positano or Salerno.

The Amlfi Coast 

From Salerno I boarded a train for the southern city of Matera. This incredible town is made up of caves and cave dwellings. This medieval town reminded me of Cappadocia in Italy. Though the similarity ends with caves, Matera is very crowded and leads to many alley ways, some of which turn out to be dead-ends. The cathedral and the town square Plaza Vittorio Venitois are typical of Italy and the main attraction is the unique style of living. It is recommended that you stay in one of the several cave style hotels and B&Bs to get a feel of the local style of living.

Our next stop Bari is a port town on its Adriatic coast. It is famous for its port as well as its university. Be ready for a lively night out as the young population gives the city its swinging nightlife. The opera house and the Basilica of St Nicola are as attractive as its numerous boulevards lined with “trattorias”. With its Mediterranean weather and happy go lucky lifestyle, Bari is fun and a great hit with the younger generation. Bari has a range of hotels to suit budget though I recommend the Palace hotel in the historic city center.    If you are not too pressed for time, a half-day visit to a very unique town of Alberobello – a UNESCO heritage tagged place with very unusual cone-shaped limestone roofs. Just an hour away from Bari, take a day tour which I am sure you will not regret at all.

From Bari, we took one of the super fast trains back to Rome to return home. Leaving Italy is never easy as it gets into your blood and the urge to return again and again is very strong. 

The Dravidian Masterpieces

The majestic Meenakshi Temple @ Madurai 

South India is easily one of the most under-sold tourism attractions in India. Though Kerala has marketed itself very well across the world, it is Tamil Nadu and Karnataka which are relatively understated - but believe me absolutely a marvel waiting to be discovered. I would not be exaggerating that some of the places down south equal, if not surpass, the famous South American landmarks such as Machu Pichu in sheer size, architecture and religious importance. The temples at Chidambaram, Kancheepuram and Madurai are sheer marvels of architecture and awe-inspiring in the size of construction. The Vijayanagara empire ruins at Hampi have been designated a World Heritage Site and are a delight to visit for its grandeur. It’s a real pity that we have not been able to market these destinations to the international tourist. Once a person visits these marvels, he/ she are sure to be awe struck!

KARNATAKA - Our journey started from Bangalore. Though there are some interesting places to visit, I wanted to get out of town as quickly as possible and visited the massive Vidhan Sauda building, the Lalbagh Gardens, and the Nandi Bull Temple - Shiva's mount made out of one piece black granite.

Vidhan Sauda @ Bangalore

An overnight train journey brought us to Hampi. The main temple complex Vithala is simply breathtaking. The famous chariot temple is here and just for that alone one must visit it. Of course the main temple is outstanding. However, the larger picture here is the expanse of the complex with the beautiful hills as the backdrop and should ideally be visited at sunrise or sunset. Some other places as a must-visit here are the Virupaksha temple, the stepwell and the iconic statue of Narsimha. For the enthusiast the Hazar Rama Temple’s carvings are worth a look. 

Hampi now has some nice places to stay and among them is Evolve back by Orange County group ,  The Hyatt and the Shivavilas Palace. I recommend at least a one night/ two day stay here and the best way to travel to & fro is by the comfortable overnight train.

While in Hampi a short drive away is the magnificent spectacle of the Tungabhadra Dam and the gardens - definitely a do-not-miss. Your return train can be boarded from Hospet itself and so the unnecessary drive back to Hampi is not required.

We boarded the Hampi express (overnight train) back for Mysore this time and eagerly awaited to visit the famed Mysore Maharaja’s palace, the Somnath and Sri Chamundeswari temple and new Namdroling monastery. The palace is absolutely a marvel to behold. The sheer expanse and opulence leaves one stunned – the paintings, chandeliers, and the furniture makes this palace one of the best in the country. You can easily spend the better part of the day at this magnificent building. Next, we visited the monastery – though a new construction it is interesting how the old Hindu traditions and temples juxtapose with the growing Tibetan Buddhist influence. However it is the superb Somnath temple which takes ones breath away. The intricate carvings on the temple walls are awe inspiring to say the least. This is truly one of the Gems of India. Naturally the religious fervor of a living temple – Sri Chamundeswari cannot be compared at all.

We had kept a full day to visit the famous Bellur temples and Hassan. So we took a car and driver to take us first to Shavanbelagola to visit the gigantic statue of Bhagwan Bahubali. Warning - the climb up the hill is of about 650 steps and it certainly tested my physical fitness – but it was definitely worth it. The positive energy around revitalizes you.

However for me the main place to visit in that tour was the Kedareswara temple. The absolutely stunning and intricate carvings in this Shiva temple are unparalleled and absolutely one of the Gems of India. Unfortunately people do not visit this as much as the other two temples of Cheenakeshava and the Hoysleswar. Another outstanding temple would be the Lakshmi Narasimha Temple – for its sheer detail it is a must-see – caution not very many people know very much about it but a good tourist taxi driver will know. So over all a very productive visit.    

One of the best things to do in Mysore is actually to visit the many excellent places for Mysore food – the Hotel Mylari – a tiny little place gives you the best Dosas and Idly – absolutely yummy!

Iconic Lalitha Mahal Palace is still the most attractive hotel building in Mysore, unfortunately with poor management it is no longer the most sought-after place as there are many more great hotels. The Royal Orchid Metropole, The Radisson Blu, The Grand Mercure and the Windflower Spa Resort are some excellent places to stay.

The above programme in Karnataka which we covered was 6 nights and 7 days (including the 2 overnight train journeys). It gave us enough time to cover the best of Bangalore, Hampi / Hospet, Mysore.

TAMIL NADU - From Mysore we boarded the Shatabdi express for Chennai (8.30 hrs). Chennai is a bustling city just like Bangalore and is fast losing its original character and so frankly if you have no work there it is best to get out of the town as soon as possible. A half-day tour covering the St. Thome Church and Kapaleshwar Temple is enough to give you an idea of the diversity of this old and very historic city. The National art gallery houses a rich repository of Dravidian art & culture. The Nataraja statue is absolutely one of the finest you can see in all of India.

Chennai has many good hotels but the newly built ITC Grand Chola is fast becoming a landmark with its majestic building. The Taj Coromondal and the Park Hyatt are good hotels but the Raintree at Annasalai is a perfect hotel recommended for its location and high quality of services.

Good morning @ Mahabalipuram

From Chennai we took a tourist car as that is the best way to tour Tamil Nadu. The road network is excellent and it gave us an opportunity to see the countryside. The first place was the holy city of Kancheepuram. This was the capital city of the Pallava dynasty and Adi Sankara himself was the founder of the “Peeth”. While everyone knows of this place as of the most important centers of  Hindu religion, this temple town has 3 outstanding temples (amongst more than 150!) – the

 Kamakshi Amma temple is dedicated to Goddess Parvati as Shakti. The temple complex is in 5 acres and has 4 main gates with the central temple with a Gold Gopuram. It is a belief that the visit to this city has to start with this temple. Later visit the Sri Ekambareswarar temple – an important Shiva temple (one of the 5 main Shiva temples) decided to Lord Shiva and the unique thing is the Shivling here is made of sand. Finally we visited the Kailashanath temple which is about 2 kms away from the Kamakshi Amman & Ekambareswarar temples and is under the ASI. The sheer  beauty of the sculptures and carvings at this temple are absolutely outstanding and unique. The depth in the carvings is just beyond words. The statutes of a dancing Shiva and Goddess Parvati have different hues and vary with different light shades. 

Intricate carving at the Kailashanath Temple, Kancheepuram

After being suitably stunned and humbled we drove onto Mahabalipuram – a beautiful sleepy seaside town. Most resorts here have “private” beaches and so it is just a few steps to the ocean. We were at the stunning Grand Bay Resort . The sunrise is what I had heard so much about and so headed early morning to the beach and was certainly not disappointed. It was good to see a few surfing enthusiasts that rise early up with their surf boards and with the shore temple in its backdrop it was a stunning picture. 

Mahabalipuram

This fisherman village has history dating back to the 4^th. Century and you have monuments dating back to that time. The famous places to visit are the Panch Rathas, the Arjunas Penance, and the Butter Ball. However it is bas relief carving on two monoliths which has the most recognizable structure of the “Descent of Ganges”. It is pure joy to see the beautiful and intricate carving in such magnitude. 

From Mahabalipuram we left early for a two and a half hour drive for the temple town of Tiruvannamalai and enroute found a hidden gem – of Gingee Fort – a 9^th Century outpost, very surprising for this part of the world. Unfortunately by then the sun was beating relentlessly and with the rest of the day already planned, we skipped walking up the 600 odd steps and continued onwards. Tiruvannamalai is famous for the Ramanna Ashram and the mighty Arunachaleshwar Temple. It is said that the devout Shiva devotee who wishes to go to Sabrimala first has to pay respects at this temple before going there. Ramanna Ashram is so peaceful and quiet that it invites you to continue staying there. Although we did not do the 14 kms perimeter walk of the sacred mountain, there were many people going about it with great devotion. On the outskirts of the town we stopped for a meal at the only good hotel The Sparsa.

Policeman in " French"  Pondicherry 

Finally we drove onto the French Indian township of Pondicherry. The first thing which struck me was the wide open roads here. After reaching we visited the famous seaside Promenade. This bustling and happening area has many nice restaurants, with fresh sea breeze blowing it was very relaxing. We dined at an authentic French restaurant – Satsanga around here and can recommend it highly. The next morning we visited Auroville and the peace and calm acts like a magnet. The breathtaking dome of the Matri Mandir is very unique and the concept of silence here reminded me of the B’ahai temple in Delhi where one just sits to contemplate. Be sure to find out the timings and the visiting requirements before going. Later visited this unique temple of French Dravadian architecture – The Kanniga Parameswari (Godess Shakti). The painting and motifs are very different from other South Indian temples with arches inside. Every afternoon the temple Elephant walks through the temple blessing the devotees and is quite a sight to see. There are some nice hotels to stay and we opted for something in the city Le Dupliex but there are a few others, The Promenade , Windflower Spa and Le Pondy.  

Matri Mandir, Pondicherry 

  

We had heard so much about Chidambaram’s temples that we were looking forward to this visit and it is difficult to be disappointed. One of the largest temple complexes in the South, this complex dates back to the 12^th. Century and over the years the Pallavas and the Cholas have added to it. Considered to be one of the main 5 Shiva temples it houses the famous bejeweled Shiva as the Nataraja (an absolute must see). We were very fortunate as the Dikshidhar here personally took us around and explained the importance, history and relevance of this fantastic temple. A few months ago someone sent me a whatsapp showing the longitude on which major Shiva temples across India are built – Kedarnath, Kaleswaram, Ekambareshwarar, Chidambaram and Rameshwaram are all in one straight line. Can you imagine how they figured this out hundreds of years ago without any modern day science? More important is what is the relevance of this, which no one has been able to give a satisfactory answer!

After the spiritually satisfying visit we reached Tanjore. By this point we were quite travel fatigued and so the accommodation was most apt for our state. The Ideal Riverview Resort is absolutely breathtaking and so calming. Away from the city on the banks of the river, this resort is quiet and peaceful, yet very approachable. However it was the Brihideshwara Temple which we were all looking forward to. Considered to be one of the best temples in South India, it did live upto the billing. Built in the 11^th century this is an absolute marvel of ancient architecture. The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. The Nandi in the front courtyard in black granite holds center stage. The capstone weighs 20 tons and is a mystery as to how it was put there – a 1000 years ago!

Tanjore is famous for its paintings and as it was a dream to acquire one such piece led us through narrow streets to a small showroom where the artisan was busy at work making a masterpiece. We found an exquisite painting of Bal Krishna and immediately set to buy it. Today it adorns our apartment and everytime I look at it I cannot but thank the Lord.

Our final destination was Madurai where the Meenakshi temple completed the tour. The biggest temple in South India, the sheer number of devotees is over whelming to say the least. With four equally beautifully and ornate gates the temple complex is dedicated to Goddess Meenakshi (a manifestation of Goddess Partvati). The hall of Thousand Pillars is astounding as each pillar is beautifully carved and has a beautiful large statue of Natraja in Bronze. The pillars appear to be in a straight line if viewed from any angle and each pillar produces a different musical note. 

Meenakshi Temple 

Madurai is also home to the beautiful Thirumalai Nayak Palace. One of the very few places which displays Dravadian, Islam and European architecture it easily is one of the most beautiful palaces in South India. The ornate work is mostly lattice and so very unique to that part of the world.

Due to a large influx of tourists, Madurai has hotels to suit all. The Taj Pasumalai and The Heritage – a Geoffery Bawa designed hotel are highly recommended. Madurai is very well connected by air and trains and is the perfect place to end your journey as multiple transport options are available.

Words of wisdom !!! 

A few important notes travelling to this area and specially visiting the temples:

·         Find out the temple timings in advance as in most cases these institutions are open in the morning and then later in the evenings. Most afternoons are closed.

·         Some of the temples are so crowded that you can spend a fair amount of time waiting so plan accordingly and start early.

·         It is important to get good guides. Most locals speak limited English and in order to get a thorough understanding of these architectural wonders you need a good guide.

·         Dress appropriately – most of these places are places of worship and the locals can get offended easily. Please find out in advance which temples restrict entry to non hindus and foreigners.

·         The best time of the year to visit is between mid-November and end-February. Even during this time it can be hot and the sunshine is strong so a hat is necessary. Loose cotton clothes are best. At all temples you will be required to leave footwear outside and can be quite uncomfortable walking on hot stone paths. It is best to carry thick cotton socks to prevent any awkward walking.  

·         Good reliable transport is the most important part of this journey as there are long drives. Budget hotels are available and are generally quite neat and clean but can be basic.

·         South Indian food is yummy and lunch generally is “meals”. This inexpensive “thali” system is freshly made and wholesome. In the smaller cities North Indian and international cuisines can be a challenge to find. Larger hotels ofcourse offer a wide selection of cuisines.